FAQ'S
“How long does it take to get a Dr. Bass cabinet?”
See long-winded answer on the “What’s New” page.
“Why does it take so long”
Aside from the fact that every cabinet is individually handcrafted, and the shear volume of orders we get, there are other factors. As a small business, we are constantly fighting the “supply chain” wars. One of the problems we are seeing is, for example, one of our suppliers would normally stock between 200 to 300 tweeters, and now, due to the economic conditions that now exist he is stocking only between 25 and 50 of them and whereas the manufacturer would normally manufacture them in lots of 1,000+ they are now only manufacturing 200 piece runs. And this is just one example. We can actually build a cabinet from scratch in about a day. I mean last month our lumber supplier ran out of the Pine plywood we like to use! ARRRRRRRRRRGH! There are so many external issues that we are constantly dealing with that make us just as crazy as some of our customers.
“Besides the weight, what is the difference between Neodymium and Ceramic drivers?”
This is probably the #1 question I get asked. There was a time when Dr. Bass would not put a Neo in one of our cabinets. But all of that has changed. Fo the last 6+ years all of the R&D and funding has gone into the development of the Neodymium driver, and they have caught up to the ceramic drivers in some aspects, and even passed them in others. By volume one requires about 18 times as much ceramic magnetic material for the equivalent magnet lifting strength. The trade off is the heat dissipation rate, it takes less heat for a Neodymium magnet to fail. And that is the one thing that all of the research has been able to overcome by use of better heat sink material, and heat sink design. Another difference is the Ceramic drivers generally have a greater power handling.
As far as the tone goes, while all speakers have their own characteristics, I find the Neo’s to have a smoother tone in a linear fashion, and the Ceramics to have a bit more growl in the 250/400Hz range. But the difference in a Beyma, for example is almost non existant. Their new MDW/Nd series sounds almost identical to their acclaimed ceramic G40 series. And they have been able to coax 700 watts out of their 15” neo. They also have the next generation of Neodymium technology with their Patented dual technology 4” voice coil that produces an amazing 900 watt 12” Neodymium driver with a frequency range of 30hz to 2.5khz. Think about a 412 with these speakers, WOW. And they are only $329.00 each. Yikes, I’ll take a dozen!
“What is the best combination for me?”
I have no idea. I always wanted to say that, but seriously, this is a particularly tough question. I can make suggestions, but ultimately we are trying to provide you with enough information and a varied enough product line to insure you get the set up that suits your needs. The best thing to do if you are not sure, is call us and we may be able to help you pick out the rig that is right for you.
“Will my 350 watt amp be enough power for your 1,000 watt cabinet?”
The short answer is yes. At Dr. Bass one of our goals was to build cabinets that were efficient enough to handle the general amp power used by most players, which is in the 350 to 500 watt range.
“How much power is enough?”
In a perfect world you want to have 2 watts of amp power to every 1 speaker watt. Ask yourself this: How often do you run your master volume wide open? In most cases you are generally using only 50 to 75% of your amplifier’s output power. You always want to have “Headroom”. This will protect your speakers, and provide you with the best tone. It is far more likely to damage a speaker by under powering it, overdriving and distorting your amplifier than any other scenario. You do not have to match the amp and speaker power handling capacity, for example a 500-watt amp for a 500-watt speaker.
“Should I get a 4 or 8 ohm cabinet, and what impedance should I use with my solid state amp?”
I am all about maximizing the power of my amp. But the first question is: Is my amp 2 or 4 ohms stable? If it is only 4 ohm stable, then you need to decide if you will be adding a second cabinet, or do you want a 1 cabinet solution. If you want a stand-alone cabinet, then by all means get a 4-ohm cabinet and maximize your amps power. If you want to get a 2nd cabinet down the road, then go with an 8 ohm cabinet, and get another 8 ohm cabinet when you are ready. The advantage of a 2 ohm stable amplifier is you can get use a 2-4 ohm cabs, 4-8 ohm cabs, 1-4 and 2-8 ohm cabs…. the point is a 2 ohm stable amp is the more versatile, but that doesn’t always mean better.
“What amps do you recommend?”
Here is a list of amps Dr. Bass likes:
First and foremost The Doctor recommends GK amps. I use a 1001 RB for my rig and Chuck uses a 2001 RB and they match the clarity of our cabinets perfectly. We also recommend “R Cocco handmade strings”. I have never heard any of my basses sound better, period! They really bring your instrument to life.
Under $1,000.00
GK 1001RB. GK has always made great products that last forever. Bob Gallien is one of the great innovators in the business. Can you say 800RB, and the first digital switching combo bass amp, the 1200CES back in 1987.
GK Fusion 550 GK’s first hybrid amp with a six stage preamp, powered by 3-12AX7’s. It also has motorized controls which is great if you use more than one bass. Amazing tone and legendary GK quality for under $900.00. (It will be mine, oh yes, it will be mine!).
Carvin BX 1200, 1200 watts for $599.00 what more can you say.
Carvin B1500, 1900 watts for $699.00 and 2 ohms stable. A beast!
Traynor Dynabass and 800H. Traynor makes the most underrated bass amps on the market. This amp was named the Yorkville XS800H, but it is still the same amp. 2 ohms stable, and at about $750.00 an incredible bargain with a 2 year even if you break it warranty. Pete Traynor is the Leo Fender of Canada, A real innovator.
Genz Benz GBE 600, I am sorry I ever got rid of mine! 2 ohms stable, 600w, tube preamp and a very flexible EQ, with the proper voicing.
Nemesis RS 700. If you like a very deep tone, this is the amp for you. Great cosmetics, a bit heavy at about 25 pounds, but a good value for under $700.00. A true rock and roll amp.
Fender 800 pro. This amp puts out an astounding 1200w at 2 ohms. Heavy at 36 pounds, but a tremendous EQ section, and nice compressor. A little inside tip: Fender will be discontinuing this amp $1400.00 soon and you can pick it up for between $750.00 and $800.00 now, which is a steal!
Over $1,000.00
GK 2001RB, 1040 watts. Great EQ voicing, A real bargain for about $1300.00 street price. Thick rich tone, extremely versatile, can achieve almost any tone.
Aguilar DB 750. Simply one of the best amps ever made. If you can afford it, buy it.
Walter Woods. Along with GK the innovator in Class D technology. The real key to a WW is the tone section. Extremely accurate, a bit sterile for my tastes but an amazing product.
Class D digital micro amps
GK MB squared. This is by far the best 500w micro amp on the market, tons of bass, and great top end response. Very warm creamy tone. They were making “micro” amps before it became fashionable.
Markbass SD 800, this amp just blew me away with it’s power. This amp has a ton of power for such a small amp. And you know how much I like power! Very impressive and versatile tone section.
TecAmp Puma 1000. 1,000 watts, 6 pounds WOW! I tested it at Bassplayer live 08’ and was speechless. This German made amp is amazing. It’s pricey at $1600.00 street price, (about $2100.00 retail), The first Class D amp that sounds like a tube amp. Also available is a great live-in shoulder bag. Keep your eyes peeled for this amp, it should be available by December 08’.
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Dr. Bass LLC.
3116 Shetland Lane
Unit #11
Myrtle Beach, SC 29577
843-278-5227
Fax: 843-580-9527
Email: drbass@drbasscabs.com
